Morocco - Sound of Silence and Orderly Chaos
- Jerry Joseph
- Apr 3, 2017
- 5 min read
Day 1: The flight from Montreal to Casablanca was delayed and I missed the connection to Marrakech! Well, that is one way to start a trip.
I arrived Marrakech 8 hours later than (at 7:30 pm). After checking in to my riad, went out for a quick walk to famous square of Jemaa el-Fnaa. All narrow roads leads to Jemaa el-Fnaa and boy is it something?! From street vendors to snake charmers to food to juice to lanterns to fake Rado watches - JeF has everything!
For a day that was grossly wasted on flight delay related drama, the glimpse of the week ahead unveiled so far seems de-light-ful! Time to rest and plan the week!
Day 2: One advice I cannot give you about Morocco is on how to judge a person by talking to them.
A little context. Morocco is famous for its 'paid assistance'. You will find a lot of 'nice guys' in the street who wants to help you to find a good restaurant or lead way to a tourist attraction. But a tip is expected at the end of it. After the first or second experience, my guard was naturally up and did not even want to talk to anyone who was trying to make a conversation. That's ok. I work in Technology and used to not talking to human beings. Hell, the most conversation I have with my next door neighbour is through text message (but you're wunderbar, Clemence) . I mean, why are you looking at my eyes when you talk? It's offensive!! BUT, the problem with shutting down completely everyone is that you miss genuinely nice people too. That's what happened today.
I was on my way to Dar Dbagh, the leather tannery neighbourhood and was dead lost. This nice guy saw me turning the map in 360 degrees way too many times and offered to assist. As you would expect, I had my mean face on and unruly denied his offer. Well, he was actually a tannery worker and did not take the humiliation too well. I had to say a few 'sorrys' to be on level terms.
Anyways, back to Dar Dbagh. Today's picture is of a cooperative tannery in Marrakech where animal skins from cow, camel, goat and sheep are converted into best quality leather, through manual process in tough and smelly conditions. I held on to the sprig of mint even long after the tour was finished. Did you leather lovers know that your 'Genuine Fine Leather' isn't so genuine and fine unless it is treated with pigeon poop (among other things) for over 15 days? Pigeon dropping have high ammonia content that acts as a softening agent in the process. You're welcome!!
Day 3: Before going to bed last night, I was able to secure a spot for a 3D/2N organized trip to Merzouga that leaves early next morning. We were picked up at 6:30 am and was on our way to the Sahara (with many pitstops). There were 11 of us - Maria and Alejandra (I conveniently changed her name from Alexandra so it is easy to remember as one of my former colleague had both names in her name.. Ya, she is Uruguayan). Jair and Marie-Claude, Len and Yue, Nic and Verona and two others whose names I now forgot. I was the black sheep (non-couple, solo, dude), so I had enough time to profile and judge everyone else from distance! But by the end of trip, 6 of these mortals became really good friends and I realized why I am not a professional profiler! I am so wrong.. always! :)
It was a long road-trip to the the gateway to Sahara - through Tizi n'Tichka pass, with breathtaking view of Atlas Mountains and through many Berber Kasbahs. Before today, the only Kasaba I knew was the name of a police station in Cochin (a south Indian city).
Day 4: Another long day of driving. By 4:30 pm, we arrived at the 'basecamp'. Now 60 minutes of camel back ride to middle of the desert. Actually, camel ride wasn't that bad as I expected. They were chill and slow moving. Yes, it is true that I had a little groin pain at the end of trip.
Sahara.. To do justice to the emptiness in the vastness we experienced, I will try to use minimal amount of words. Silence is important. Deafening sound of silence was amplified by miles and miles of massive red(ish) sand dunes and a million stars at night. Surreal!
Day 5: One of the highlights of the day was watching the sun rising in the desert.
Here I was patiently waiting for the sunrise at 5:30 am.
I joined Maria, Alexandra, Jair, Marie-Claude, Len and Yue to Fes, a deviation from the original plan which created some confusion with the tour guide in the morning. But that is behind us now. Long road trip to Fes and some fun time with new friends await. Still have 3 days remaining but I could feel that this trip is slowly coming to a satisfactory close.
Day 6: Fes. Boy o Boy.. The streets got narrower and the maze got crazier!
The imperial city of Fez(s) is one of the well preserved old cities of Arab world and also the home of the oldest university. They say if you don't get lost in the narrow roads of the old Medina, you haven't experienced Fez enough. By that measure, I had experienced Fez one too many times.
By last night's dinner and today's walking around, the bond between the group was getting stronger. What a fun bunch! But Jair and Marie-Claude have to leave tonight. So long, friends!
Day 7: A quick improvisation resulted in the post card moment of the trip.
Chefchaouen is the 'Lonely-Planet-Cover' type cliche of Morocco. This popular tourist destination is famous for the array of distinctive 'blue-u-tiful' houses with the backdrop of Rif mountains. It's also a 'happy town' in Northern Morocco for the tolerability of cultivation and supply of marijuana.
It takes a 9 hour return bus trip from Fes to get here, but worth every minute!
Day 8: Last day of the trip. Took the morning bus to Casablanca from where I have a return flight to Montreal in the early evening. There was barely 45 minutes for me to walk around Casablanca and decided to make a quick trip to Hassan II Mosque, in the sea-front. This is the largest mosque in Morocco and 13th largest in the world and it was magnificent. What a fitting way to end the trip.
(Actually I think the cab driver ripped me off (of $3) on my way to the train station.. Well, considering the trip began with a missed flight, I wouldn't bitch about $3.. Generous guy I am)
Time to roll the end credits.
I've been served! Last day in Morocco. Time to sip a mint tea and be reminiscent of the Chaotic Marrakech, Calm Sahara, Confusing Fez, Colorful Chaouen and Chirpy new friends (Chicas, cabron and chinitos.. I have a C thing going, you C). Content!
One other person worth the mention is Monsieur Jean-Claude and his spectacular Riad in Fez (pictured here). While the 'assistance' in Morocco always comes at a cost, JC was exceptional and went above and beyond what is expected of him to make our stay pleasant and stress-free and deserve every glowing remarks you may find in TripAdvisor about him and his Riad. Merci pour tout, JC. À bientôt!
FIN
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